Jon Paul Davies was an electronic and house musician under numerous aliases during the 1990s.[2] One of his many aliases was Deejay Punk Roc in 1997. There were initially two different members of Deejay Punk Roc; Jon Paul Davis handled the music production and when playing live, the act was often fronted by a DJ named Charles Gettis,[3] an African-American ex-military serviceman from Brooklyn, New York whom had been drafted into the army at 16 and had DJ'ed in block parties before later residing in Toxteth, Liverpool.[3][4] This at the time baffled music magazines,[5] as Davies never appeared in photos to amplify the mystery of who produced the music. The first DJPR release was the track "My Beatbox" (later featured on the PS1 game Thrasher: Skate and Destroy) in 1997 on Davies' own record label Airdog, on a compilation titled Still Searchin' - A Collection of Speaker Poppin' Electro Beats. Deejay Punk-Roc's debut album Chickeneye followed in 1998, which was met with rave reviews from press such as Vibe[6] and listeners alike. During this he was a prolific remixer for popular nu metal and electronic artists alike. He produced remixes for many artists of the day including Mantronix, the Beastie Boys,[7] Moby and Pitchshifter.
When it comes to feeding vertebrate prey (i.e Mice, Rats, Rabbits, etc.) to reptiles, the animal being fed nearly always is a snake. Large carnivorous lizards such as Monitors and Tegus tend to have little trouble with live rodents; however, the principles presented here still apply and should at least be considered if you routinely feed live rodents to your monitors or tegus.
Bump Of Chicken Live Rar
Download Zip: https://shurll.com/2vHeSD
A less common, though much more serious situation occurs when a live prey item is left unattended with a snake for some period of time. There are countless reports of snakes (usually finicky ball pythons) left for days in a closed box with a live prey item. The results are usually deadly. Snakes are often chewed on by hungry rodents that have nothing else to eat. Remember, snakes can go months without food, but not mice and rats. Why would a snake let this happen? Simple. The snake isn't hungry. It may be stressed, ill, or just plain full. In any case, if the initial feeding response is not there, then leaving the rodent with the snake for hours will make no difference. If a snake doesn't show interest right away, chances are it won't eat right then. The longer the prey item is left with the snake, the more desensitized the snake becomes to the prey item. Rule of thumb: Don't leave live prey with an unattended snake for more than 15 minutes at a time.
So, perhaps your asking yourself, who pre-kills the rats and mice for these snakes in the wild? Well, nobody. But that's OK. These snakes aren't in the wild. They are our pets, and their health and very lives are our responsibility. It is up to us to do everything we can to make our pets safe and comfortable as long as we continue to keep them as pets. To the person who insists that feeding live prey is the natural, only way to go, I offer this: Why not also expose your pets to other "natural" factors. How about unexpected cold-snaps, or predators. See my point?
By offering freshly killed prey, you are obviously able to avoid the whole prey-fighting-back phenomenon. However, you can take it a step further and increase the safety and convenience of feeding rodents to a whole new level. Consider purchasing frozen prey. They are readily available for less than the price of a live food item, and can be stored in your freezer for months. Additionally, by freezing the prey item solid, any potential diseases and or parasites that may have been present in the rodent are unquestionably killed.
There are cases when feeding live prey will be needed. Finicky or young animals may be stubborn about taking dead prey, as well as certain individual animals that will simply never cooperate. In all other cases, the only advantage to feeding live prey is for the entertainment value it provides its owner. Sure, the chase can be exciting, but is really worth the potential harm to your pet?
So, you've decided to give the pre-killed feeding thing a try. Good. You have nothing to lose. If your snake is used to being offered live prey, then I would continue to do so in your home until your snake is fully settled in. There is no use in trying to further confuse and stress an already upset animal adjusting to a new environment. It's best to give the snake a few weeks to settle in, before making any drastic changes in feeding practices.
In the best case scenario, your snake will accept the prey with little or no work on your part. Snakes with strong feeding responses such as most colubrids and boas will often take the prey if simply left alone for a while with the dead rodent in a dark, quiet place. (Remember, it's always a good idea to feed your snakes in a container other than the one they live in. Doing so greatly reduces their aggression level in the cage, as well as your chances of being bitten.) If the snake has not eaten after 15 minutes, you may want to consider leaving it with the prey overnight in a secure and warm area. The drawback here is that as time progresses, the prey item will begin to stiffen and cool to room temperature. Both of which may cause the snake to lose interest. My personal opinion is that if the snake hasn't consumed a dead prey item after an hour or so, it probably won't, so rather than leaving the snake crammed in a feeding container, just call it quits, and try again in a few days.
Rottweilers, as a breed, are genetically more susceptible to a variety of skin conditions including eczema, folliculitis, atopic dermatitis, seborrhea, and skin allergies. When it comes to skin allergies, contact, inhalent, and food allergens could all be the source of their discomfort.4 While a true food allergy in dogs is rare, rottweilers appear to suffer from food allergies and sensitivities more than other breeds.4 Rottweilers are known to have sensitive stomachs, so bland hypoallergenic diets that still meet their high protein requirements, are often recommended.4 Rottweilers have been found to be sensitive to turkey, chicken, beef, dairy, fillers and grains, and food additives and colorants.4,3
The diet your rottweiler consumes and the environment in which they live, can all lead to skin allergies. More so than other breeds, rottweilers are particularly susceptible to dietary skin reactions with common culprits including protein source, high levels of animal fat, spices, and grains and fillers.3 Additionally, they have a higher protein requirement than other breeds, and nutritionally inadequate diets can also result in skin problems.4 However, contact and environmental allergens including pollen, dust, cleaning agents, grooming products, and even plastics have been noted as skin irritants. Rottweilers can also experience skin allergies as a result of fleas, so flea prevention methods are imperative.4
All of the various layers and components of skin have the potential for developing distinctive tumors. Distinguishing a tumor from an inflammatory disease can sometimes be difficult. Tumors are usually small lumps or bumps, but they also can occur as hairless, discolored patches, rashes, or nonhealing ulcers. Because skin tumors are so diverse, identifying them should be left to a veterinarian.
These tumors most commonly appear as deep, firm, masses near the anal sacs. Older English Cocker Spaniels, Springer Spaniels, Dachshunds, Alaskan Malamutes, German Shepherds, and mixed-breed dogs are most at risk. As the tumors grow, they may compress the rectum and induce constipation. Some of these tumors are associated with a syndrome that is characterized by abnormally high calcium in the blood. Elevated calcium causes poor appetite, weight loss, kidney disease, and increased water intake and urine output. The tumors often spread to local lymph nodes and other organs. In most cases, surgery requires removal of the mass and tissues surrounding it, including involved lymph nodes. If the entire tumor cannot be removed, reducing the size of the tumor can help improve signs. Chemotherapy and radiation treatment may also be provided. Few dogs live more than a year after this type of tumor has been diagnosed.
Epidermal hamartomas (nevi) are dark, pointy bumps on the skin. Occasionally they are arranged in a line. They are rare and found most often in puppies. The disease may be inherited in Cocker Spaniels. Some form pimples or dark, thick skin folds. They are benign, but their appearance is unpleasant, and they are prone to secondary bacterial infection. For these reasons, epidermal hamartomas are usually removed or treated. Smaller hamartomas can be surgically removed. Dogs with large or multiple hamartomas may respond to drug treatment.
Canine warty dyskeratomas are rare, benign tumors that grow near hair follicles or sweat glands. They are bumps with a dark dot in the center. How they are formed is not known. They are usually treated by surgical removal.
Angiosarcomas are highly malignant and can vary greatly in appearance. Most commonly, they appear as one or more red lumps in the skin or underlying soft tissues. Less frequently, they appear as a poorly defined bruise. All grow rapidly and often cause death of nearby normal tissue. These tumors spread, especially to the lungs and liver. A biopsy is needed to confirm the diagnosis. Wide surgical removal is the treatment of choice for angiosarcomas below the skin surface. During surgery, chemotherapy drugs may be placed in the area to treat any remaining tumor cells.
Cutaneous histiocytosis is associated with development of numerous raised or flat bumps involving the deep layer of the skin or fat under the skin. It is rare in dogs and can develop at any age but is most common in young adults. Chinese Shar Peis, Collies, Border Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, Briards, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherds may have a higher risk of disease. The skin bumps may come and go and do not typically cause itching. The legs and trunk are most commonly affected. The disease can also affect the face and can cause trouble breathing if present on the nostrils. This form of histiocytosis does not typically affect any internal organs but can cause dogs to appear unsightly. A number of therapies have been tried to treat this condition, but the response is variable. Some dogs will respond rapidly and permanently, whereas others will only improve temporarily, if at all. 2ff7e9595c
Commentaires